Six km west of Tabanan is Kerambitan, a small district located in a prosperous agricultural region. Terraced rice fields surround the district’s villages. If you hear of any ceremonies taking place in the countryside, drop everything and go out to see them.

The main village is Kerambitan, about eight-km southwest of Tabanan (by ‘bemo’). Though it lacks an inexpensive ‘losmen’, this village makes an excellent base from which to visit Tanah Lot, Mengwi, Pejaten, Alas Kedaton, Gunung Batukau and Bedugul.

Not by accident is the name Kerambitan derived from the Sanskrit karawitan, which means ‘art, music, and dance.’ This small, attractive village is renowned for its classical literature, Legong dancing, ‘wayang’-style painting, stone- and wood-carving and a ‘tektekan’ orchestra believed to have magical powers. The painters of the village belong to a school begun by Gusti Wayang Kopang and I Macong in the 1930s. The style is similar to that of Kamasan except that the teeth and the costumes are depicted differently. Ask the friendly villagers the way to the unique Luhur Ulun Desa temple dating from the neolithic period.

Kerambitan was the seat of a branch of one of the old ruling triwangsa houses of Tabanan, the legendary court of Arya Kenceng. The village still contains old-style residences, as well as two treasure-filled 17th century gilded palaces, Puri Gede and Puri Anyar, lovingly restored by the family of the ‘puri’. Cultural programs and dinners have been presented here since 1967.

Identical twin grandsons-Anak Agung Ngurah Oka Silagunadha or ‘Pak Oka’ and Anak Agung Rai Giri Gunadhi or ‘Pak Rai’-of the late king preside over the palaces. The two princes are the ninth generation of royalty to occupy the palace, with Pak Oka designated as head of family because his birth preceded his brother’s by 30 minutes. Inside the ‘puri’ traditional dancing and arts are kept very much alive. The ‘puri’ also arranges special tourist events such as traditional-style dinner parties accompanied by Legong, Tektekan and Joged performances. Overnight guests are welcome in Puri Anyar, ‘gamelan’ lessons can be arranged and you are invited to join the village’s ‘lontar’-reading or kite-flying clubs.

One km to the west of Kerambitan is Tista, a village renowned for its unique version of the Legong-Legong Leko, which is only danced around Tabanan. In this social dance, two tiny Leko dancers wearing Legong dress and headdresses are accompanied by the melodies of the Janger.

Unusual and slightly incongruous is Penyalin’s, a Chippendale furniture factory located close to where the road to Kerambitan leaves the main road to Gilimanuk. The showroom features tables, chairs with velvet cushions, rolltop writing desks. The pieces are mostly carved by hand, though there is some routing work.

Two km south of Kerambitan is Panarukan, a village known for its many fine wood and stone sculptors and a smaller version of Tektekan. Visit the studio of Panarukan’s most famous native son, the modern painter Ajin Ida Putu Cegeg.

Only two-km beyond Panarukan (Five km to the south of Kerambitan village) is the wide and empty black-sand beach of Klatingdukuh, offering fine views of the coast. Follow the road about nine-km southwest of Kerambitan to wide, quiet, black-sand Pasut Beach with waves up to three meters high. Located on either side of the mouths of two rivers, these beaches are clean and graced with native ‘jukung’.

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